BE attended The Makeup Show, NYC held at the Metropolitan Pavilllion in NYC on May 18-19, 2008. The only trade show for makeup professionals of it's kind, it's co-produced by Metropolitan Events & Production.
BE arranged an exclusive interview with makeup artist James Vincent, who has worked in all mediums of make-up including magazines, runways and television. His client list includes Good Morning America, The Today Show, CNN, Fuse, MTV, BBC and BET. Nylon magazine and WWD have named James as the "makeup artist to watch".
Latest trends, tips and color technologies were also shared by Eve Pearl, 5 time Emmy award winning, celebrity makeup artist , David Klasfeld, print, runway and film Make Up Artist CEO and Creative Director of OCC, Trae Bodge co-founder of 3 Color Custom and Lori Taylor, Pro Artistry Manager at Smashbox.
Color Cosmetic Trends Fall/Winter 08/09
Exclusive, from makeup artist James Vincent
. Texture and application will be key coming this Fall/Winter 08/09. We will be seeing more combined textures like matt with slight shimmer.
. Matt texture is resurfacing with a return to a matt lip that is modern, softer, sheerer and more wearable than matt’s of the past.
. We’ll see an evolvement away from the high frost to a more refined, easy to wear shine that’s most flattering for women.
. Color is vital. The oranges and pinks of Spring 2008 will evolve into richer colors for Fall. Blacks and blues around eyes will soften and there will be an evolvement from deep burgundy to softer berries.
. We will see a softer, gentler, fuller eye brow with a less severe arch and eyes will be emphasized with “big” lashes.
TheVisualEdge: Innovative Color
Eve Pearl – Luxury Brand of CosmeNutrients. Eve just upped the performance of her infamous Salmon Concealer by making it a treatment product too! Astaxanthin infused in this shadow reducing concealer is a potent anti-oxidant. Harvested from micro algae, it’s 1000 times more potent than vitamin E for lipd peroxidation. The formula is packed with nutrients like omega-3, anti-oxidants and Vitamin E plus peptides. The salmon color of the concealer helps neutralizes the dark blue undertones from the skin eliminating those green/grey raccoon eyes caused by yellow-based concealers that tend to highlight and accentuate the problem. According to Eve Pearl, no need to apply a moisturizer before using the concealer. The base is moisturizing and beneficial enough to apply directly onto cleansed eye area.
Make Up For Ever – Get camera ready! High definition imagery shows pictures that are six times as sharp as previous, softer grained images. Fine lines and wrinkles, skin imperfections, shine, makeup mistakes and incorrectly matched foundation can all be obvious under the high definition lens.
Make Up For Ever has just created a collection of camera ready products that withstand the scrutiny of this new generation of digital imagery. High Definition Primer, High Definition Foundation and High Definition Powder work to give skin a soft focus look under digital technology.
HD Primer acts as a preparation product that creates a protective film on the skin’s surface and operates as a shield, preventing the foundation from penetrating the skin. The primer also helps to create a soft focus effect to the complexion. Formulated with Silica Micro Beads that act as light refractors to both man-made and natural light, it veils imperfections. Nourishing ingredients act as moisturizers to protect skin from dryness, providing a well balanced canvas for foundation application.
HD Foundation covers skin imperfections yet remains invisible to the eye on screen or in real life. This invisible coverage formula has been tested by professionals in front of HD cameras, and by real women in every type of light. The formula is an oil-free, lightweight liquid with an extremely smooth texture. Silica Micro Beads combined with Sericite Mica refract both man-made and natural light to veil imperfections creating a soft focus effect to skin. Coated Amino Acid Pigments blend with the complexion to create the truest colors in a wide range of skin tone shades. A silicone elastomer was added as a mattifying agent to neutralize shine while nourishing moisturizers protect the skin from dryness.
HD Powder finishes off every look on every skin tone with sheer flawlessness. A universal, invisible finishing powder, it further meets the demands of new digital imagery and high definition techniques. Providing a soft focus effect, the formula is incredibly soft and satiny using ultra fine spherical micro-particles made of 100% Mineral Silica Powder. The micro-particles allow natural and artificial light to reflect off of them softening and masking lines and imperfections for a perfect, radiant complexion on screen and in real life. While the powder is a milky white color in the jar, the formula is translucent once applied to skin, making it the ideal finishing powder for all skin tones from light to deep. Talc free and paraben free.
3 Custom Color - What's Old is New! Trae Bodge, Scott Catto and Chad Hayduk, the “Three” Specialists in Three Custom Color just introduced Light Brights, a lip color collection reminiscent of the 80’s dance scene. Launched a few weeks ago, the lip colors are right on target for 2008’s Spring/Summer color season that features bold, hot, and neon-like tones. The gleaming colors of fashion do not necessarily translate well when worn bold on skin. Day Glo Florescents collaborated with 3 Color Cosmetics to create 4 soft, sheer, modern, playful, wearable tints. The moisturizing stains are great for all skin tones and have names that evoke the nightlife of a totally awesome decade!
THE EXCLUSIVE EDGE: Tips and Tricks Revealed
Smashbox - Halo Hydrating Perfecting Powder. Exclusive only through QVC, this anti-aging pressed powder actually allows the user to grind only as much powder needed for loose powder application. No product waste, no hard shiny build-up on pressed powder surface, no spillage of extra powder when opened. Application is sheer with a natural luminous look. Made with “good for skin” ingredients including a hydrating blend of vitamins and Gogi berry, a powerful antioxidant. The formula is also infused with encapsulated water to refresh the skin on contact and provide a hydrated look that won't accentuate lines and wrinkles. Good for all skin types, the powder is oil, talc, and paraben free.
James Vincent, Make Up Artist
Innovative Cosmetic Application Tips:
. With face powder application, the size of brush matters! “ People have a tendency to over powder their face after foundation application.” James recommends using a small face brush (he uses a crease brush) to finish the face and create a flawless look. . His favorite finishing powder? Make Up Forever HD powder. . A natural looking brow is important! Use a gel liner to sketch in individual hairs. If needed, follow with taupe shadow or pencil in the brow to create a natural look. . James prefers to use taupe powder followed by a pencil to line the eyes. It offers a natural shadow and creates a softer gradation of color than lining completely with a dark black line. It also offers a guideline to follow so you don’t have to worry about making mistakes.
OCC - Lip Tricks! Like your current day lip color, but need a little more intensity for night wear? Layer a small amount of OCC’s Tarred lip balm, a black lip base color, over your favorite day lip color to intensify the look for evening wear.
Elegant Faces Lashes…eyes all a flutter! There “is” a way to wear “a little fluttery wing” without the Twiggy look. Elegant Faces Lashes offers a wide selection of shapes and lengths for extra eye drama that allows evolvement of the theatrical look of lashwear to an easy every day eye accessory. Achieve a voluminous, natural lashy look with their most popular lash set using only ½ a lash Half lash application makes it easy for daily wear. Hint: The best way to apply lashes is to put a mirror on the table, look down and apply. Dot a very small amount of lash glue along the lash trim and set it gently along lash line ½ way in the center of the eyelid to the outer edge of eye.
Eye Candy - Linda Mason, known for her out of the box non-traditional make-up application, just launched her latest book called Eye Candy. This step by step instructional book offers a range of visual applications from wearable everyday makeup to dramatic runway looks. Illustrated are 50 different eye color applications. It’s easy to use and comprehend and great for color ideas in the product development marketing departments or for beginner make-up artists.
THE TEXTURAL EDGE: Myths and Truths on Minerals, Airbrushing and HD Make Up
Top 3 Myths of Air Brushed Make-up Application
(David Klasfeld of OCC Makeup)
Myth: Airbrush application is hard. Truth: Airbrushing is as simple as point and spray. The “equipment” can be intimidating, but once you get passed that, application is a breeze…literally!
Myth: Airbrushed make-up means more moveable make-up. Truth: It’s a given that your make-up foundation should be able to move with skin expressions whether air-brushed or manually applied. Make-up that doesn’t budge is not your friend. Years ago alcohol based make-ups used with air-brushing caused cracking and peeling of foundation. Today’s innovative formulas are water based and oil-free to reduce the dry look on skin without harsh mattifying agents.
Myth: HD (High Definition) Make-up is a product Truth: HD make-up is a technique. Whether applied with an airbrush or without, it’s all about the talent of the hands that apply the make-up. Because of its full coverage, but ultra-sheer texture, airbrush makeup is one of the quickest and easiest ways to make sure your makeup stands up to the scrutiny of a hi-definition camera, but a hand-applied foundation can be meticulously blended to work well too.
The Truth about HD Make Up and Airbrushing
(James Vincent, Make Up Artist)
. Airbrushing is a great option for makeup artists and real women for daily use once the technique of application is learned.
. With HD photography, airbrushing does not always have to be the final option. You can achieve the same application used with fingers as you can with an airbrush, however, airbrush is favored for high definition photography because it deposits color in pixels (small particles), the same way TV translates it’s image on the screen.
. Basically, the HD camera sees what the naked eye sees. It screens images 10x’s more in HD so the need for less make-up application is a technique that is changing in the TV/photography/film industries.
. HD makeup is more mattifying on purpose! It’s designed to read like skin on the HD monitor. The make-up starts out matt, then a natural shine will come through.
. James' recommendation for one of the best HD foundations; Make Up For Ever's new HD foundation. “Love the foundation! It’s not limited to just HD use, it’s a great option for everyday wear as well.” The formula is beautiful and looks natural on skin. It has great coverage and can be used for any area of application.”
The Professional View on Mineral Make Up
(James Vincent, Make Up Artist)
. Mineral powder foundations are really easy to apply. It’s simple and works well for a quick application especially for today’s busy lifestyle. “It’s great for real women and makes them feel good.”
. All makeup is mineral makeup. Mineral Makeup diffuses light and when applied the correct way gives a more flawless finish. It’s made up of different shape and particle sizes that reflect and refract light.
. It’s a great option for clients who have sensitive skin, post-op surgery, chemo or radiation.
. The best Mineral Makeup? James recommends Alison Rafaelle mineral foundation…”it’s amazing”.
. What tends to hinder the look of mineral make-up is the flash that is used during photography sessions. That’s why professional makeup artists prefer other textures and methods of make-up application. The minerals create shine and flash it back in photos. If used all over the face it can create a shiny, sweaty, non-professional look.
MORE NEWSLETTERS FROM BEAUTYEDGE ARCHIVES
- THE MAKE UP SHOW NYC
- SPA & RESORT EXPO - THE MEDICAL AESTHETICS CONF. NYC, September 20-22, 2008
- INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS, COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE - Las Vegas, June 2008
- THE MAKEUP SHOW - New York City, May 2008
- INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS, COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE - New York City, April 2008
- QVC's BEAUTYBASH - West Chester, PA, April 6, 2008
- THE SPA & RESORT INDUSTRY - CorneliaDaySpa, New York City, March 2008
- THE SPA EXPERIENCE - SpaFinder, New York City, October 2007
- THE INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE OF ESTHETICS AND SPA - Philadelphia, October 2007